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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Spring Mills
    Posts
    707

    Ford Ranger Clutch Bleeding

    Here is the procedure for bleeding the clutch of a Ford Ranger.

    Instructions:

    1. The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

    2. Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

    3. Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

    4. Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

    5. Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
    Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

    6. Close the bleeder valve.

    7. Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

    8. Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help suck fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

    9. Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

    10. The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

    11. Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

    12. Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

    Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

    Alternate Technique: (these provided by Dirk). Here is one way you can try that really worked great for him.

    1. Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fluid reservoir
    2. Use a hand pump to manually force the fluid down the line.
    3. Reconnect line to reservoir after process and fill fluid as needed.
    Note: The reverse bleeding procedure will not work on all rangers. Some rangers' bleeder is nothing but a tapered hex bolt with a hole in it, no real way to get a good seal on it.

    Justa Wonderin

  2. thanks for posting this it helps quite a bit.

    should I unbolt the master cylinder and gravity bleed it

    or

    gravity bleed it and if it does not help then unbolt and repeat
    \/~ROB~\/
    96 5.9L ctd long bed standard cab 4x4 pump turned up and guages
    92 4.0L Ranger 4x4(dead)
    79 6.6L F150 4x4 3 inch body, 4 inch suspension, msd ignition, elec. fuel pump, 38" tsls
    93 2.8L Sonoma 2wd(sold)

    BUDGET BOGGERS OFFROAD
    http://www.geocities.com/sealops2000/BudgetBoggers.html

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Spring Mills
    Posts
    707
    I would gravity bleed it and see how that does and feels. Then if nothing then can take it apart and bleed it.
    Justa Wonderin

  4. I let it gravity bleed for 45 min and the pedal doesnt want to come up from the floor without a little encouragement
    \/~ROB~\/
    96 5.9L ctd long bed standard cab 4x4 pump turned up and guages
    92 4.0L Ranger 4x4(dead)
    79 6.6L F150 4x4 3 inch body, 4 inch suspension, msd ignition, elec. fuel pump, 38" tsls
    93 2.8L Sonoma 2wd(sold)

    BUDGET BOGGERS OFFROAD
    http://www.geocities.com/sealops2000/BudgetBoggers.html

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Spring Mills
    Posts
    707
    I read where the master cylinder(clutch) will get an air pocket in the back side that is angeled down. This will cause the problem. You have to follow the clutch bleeding that I posted. Some say that gravity bleeding works and sometimes dont. Sorry about that.
    Justa Wonderin

  6. #6
    pull the res off the fire wall then try bleeding it. take your time ranger clutchc suck to bleed.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Pennsyltucky
    Posts
    2,966
    Blog Entries
    2
    I can tell you first hand that is the WORST bleed EVER !!!!!!!!

    Did it with a Mazda (Ranger) and it was done like 20 times.... Finally was taken in for full tranny rebuild.. but it was really only the clutch and crap.

    HATEFUL !!!!!!!!
    85 Toyota 4 Runner
    99 Vortec 4.3L, 4L60E, 35x16 Boggers, Cryo'd 5.29's, Aussie Lockers F&R, 30 spline Super Longs, Marlin twin stick, Marlin 4.70:1 Crawler box and tons more.

    2003 Ram 1500 Sport
    6" Fabtech, 35 MTZ's on 17x9 Moto Metals, Hypertech'd HEMI, and other goodies. (Daily driver and tow rig)

  8. #8
    86Ford Guest
    haha i can do it alone in 10 min or less.......

    86

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